Making the neck

The neck blank was cut from a beautiful one-piece piece of maple with narrow, laying annual rings. The outer form was marked and worked out with a template. The headstock and also the fingerboard side is finished in the thickness, but the back of the neck remains angular for now. This makes the following work easier.

Gluing the fingerboard

The fingerboard is glued onto a straight, very stiff insert. For better orientation against slipping I drill approx. 1mm holes in the 1st and last fret and put wire pins of the same size in the holes. This way the wood stays in position during gluing and the clamps do not move the piece.

Gluing the fingerboard

To compensate for the curvature, the glue insert has a milling in the middle.

Gluing the fingerboard II

Production of the neck profile

With a scraper, a rasp, a carving knife and sandpaper I create the profile of the back of the neck. I mark the middle seam with a pencil and make sure that the line remains visible until the final touch.

Depending on taste, the profile can be customized. This one was rounded D.

Preparation of the neck profile

At head and neck base the profile must be formed carefully with file and carving iron.

Preparation of the neck profile

Carving the neck junction

The neck transition is marked and shaped with a carving knife, round file and sandpaper.

Carving neck junction

Drilling the machine head holes

I used Schaller machine heads with 10mm diameter. For this purpose holes are drilled at a distance of 35mm with a jig.

Drilling of holes mechanics

Inserting the frets with the press

The frets are now pressed in (works great with the hammer - but even better with the press).

Inserting the frets with the press

Adjusting and inserting the neck base

The neck base is now adjusted with a planer and sandpaper so that it fits into the pocket with some air. If it goes in too tightly, it squeezes glue out when joining and the joint will not be stable.

Fitting the neck insert

Classic view