Here I describe adhesives and glues, with whom I have had experience in guitar construction and repair.

Guitar, whether acoustic or electric, are a Allerlei different materials. The body is mostly made of solid wood, edge strip often made of plastic, ornaments from conch (lime), saddles and ridges of bone. And somehow they have similar to each other without screws be fixed. From of old it used glues. Over time and under industrial Vortschritts this assume a large degree modern adhesives. Mention may be made as adhesives combine the similar materials, but also to unite curious compounds such as wood and metal. In guitar making and repair I use natural glues, glue, Gelbleim but also modern adhesives as cyan acrylate glue (superglue) and two-component adhesive such as epoxy. In the following I will briefly describe the most important:

Natural glues are all based on animal derived protein compounds. They combine well with wooden timber. They differ depending on the starting material

  • Bone glue (carpenter's glue, hard compounds, usually brownish, origin animal bones, chondrin base)
  • Hide glue (for elastic compounds originating animal skins, glutelin base)
  • Hasenleim (yet resilient, somewhat tougher, for elastic bonds, often referred to as painting or gilding primer, originating skins of hare or rabbit)
  • Fischblasenleim (for solid compounds, low viscosity, originating swim bladders large fish)

The ideal would be Fischblasenleim glue, as this is easier to process almost transparent after processing. Unfortunately, this is more expensive than hide glue over 30 times! All of these glues are Heißleime and have moderate to about 60 to max. 70 ° C are brought and bind off in the cooled state. When using one must pay attention to possibly stainless metals, since these discolor the glue, also possibly reduce the holding force (tied brush, glass, ceramic or stainless steel use).

When I use Naturleime, I suppose hide glue. This must, best known as crumbs, overnight with 2-4fachen amount of soft water (rain water) are recognized. Some also mix up to 10% of urea in order to extend the open time. It comes in only as much glue, how to consume in a few days. Can not consume anything you, one puts it in the refrigerator. Like other products to fight the bacteria that decompose the glue with glue. So the approach report gammlig or are mold flowers on it - throw away the same !!

Hide glue - tried and true

Hide glue, there are also recently cold processable by the company Franklin ("Titebond Hide Glue (hide glue) 237ml" Item No. 11010004).

On the picture to the left is a pot of glue with double wall. Make up water, sets into the central pot and the whole thing on a hotplate. For temperature control you also need a thermometer in the glue. I am using a thermostatically controlled water heater, in the I hang a 250ml laboratory glass. But I have also seen people use the Baby Bottle Warmer for it. Difficult is for the use of hide glue on large surfaces, as this cools faster than you comply with the clamping. Recommended are a very warm workshop, preheat with a hairdryer or iron the glue areas previously and absolutely a few dry laps without glue in order to practice the process. Rear left is a bag with about 750g hide glue and right are two halves of a bone glue disc.

Hobby white glue and glue Express

Here in Germany, you meet in the hobby very often Ponal white glue (top rear). I have this more often used at the beginning to me one day a somewhat higher load Fuge opened repeatedly. I think that the glue is good "to glue on felt hats Punch puppet" for, but for the guitar he has too many plasticizers in it, not recommended for this purpose. By contrast, the "Express" cures quickly and firmly. You get it with steam again. The disadvantage is that it cures milky, somewhere if glue was not removed.


"The" Instrument glue with the greatest notoriety comes from the USA by the company Franklin. This high-strength adhesive Professional ("Titebond Original 237ml" Item No. 11010001) is suitable for wood, bone, mother of pearl etc. indoors. Removed after a few minutes quite easily, even glue residues can be wiped off Resistant to most solvents, Open time 5 min excess glue with water..
The processing temperature should be between 10-30 ° C; Pressing time is between 30-60Minuten, final strength reached after about 24 hours of this.

  • For bindings and Sidedots I use ABS glue or "UHU crystal clear" from the famous yellow and black tube.
  • For bonding of mother of pearl and abalone I use superglue (Brand unimportant, everyone goes). Will paint scratches repaired with superglue, but it should be a little zähflüssigerer type.
  • Filling the gaps in deposits I do with 5 minutes epoxy glue. The problem may be, if the mixing ratio of hardener to resin is wrong. For this reason, weighing the mixture is highly recommended. Greatly simplifies the right mix when using epoxy from the double syringe. In a container, there is the resin, the other the hardener. To push back on the syringe, come from both vessels equally much adhesive, which is true in Mischungsverhätlnis and only needs to be stirred. I mix for staining wood dust and heat to the splice with infrared light to reduce the viscosity without increase (bubbles then get better and faster).