Print

Binding Jig

Tools: Binding Jig

Here I show a homemade device for clean and precise milling of purfling on guitars.

Does this sound familiar: it sets the router to the guitar top and provides meticulously the depth and width of the cutter to test wood to match the desired binding, and then milled to - and the margin deposits back and forth do not fit! Most comes from this, that the bearing surface of the router is not at right angles to the desired milling channel. At the points where the angle cutter / Edition was the steepest one has the deepest channel and since then extends the strength of the binding material from not remember what then mostly at the expense of Zargenwandstärke. Looking at the ceiling or the floor of a Western guitar, one can easily see the bulge in Jazz Guitars is even more striking. While you can always choose the binding so thick that it survives, but to the eye of the master, the result is just nothing.

My device is in simple terms is nothing but a "upholder" for the router and a bracket with wheels for a horizontal, gently push around the guitar during milling. Horizontal (up / down) the cutter is guided by means of a shoe, which rests near the edge on the outer contour and follows her in height. The width of the milled channel (ie how much wood the cutter at the periphery takes away = thickness of the bindings) is adjusted via the feed unit. This is a role with the diameter of the cutter that will be delivered by means of a knurled screw just below the Fäsers. Closes the outer contour of the role the of the milling cutter from, you do not have removal, the role is back 1mm, the milling width is 1mm. I use a router Ø10mm.

Really good is the channel with start-cutters, who mounted corresponding ball bearings. Such, I have also on offer. If one uses this, eliminates the adjustable backstop for the milling depth.

19110002 Set Multi-Binding Cutters Carbide with 8mm recording, screws, Inbunsschlüssel and 8-up rings for bindings with 1mm; 1.5mm; 2mm; 2.5mm; 3mm; 3.5mm; 4mm; 5mm distance

The description of the device, I share the following sections:

Construction guitar holder:

The holder is made of a 28mm thick MDF board, 4 wheels on the bottom and 4 dual position holders. The top of the guitar should run as horizontal as possible. To ensure this, you need the height adjustable supports for almost all guitars are on the neck is thinner than the body end. On the other hand the guitar body must sit tight in the holder and you need a certain amount of displacement region to put pressure on the Gitarrenzargen from the side exerting. In the left picture you can see the height adjustment well to protect the surface I have glued small pieces of cork with UHU. On the right picture you can see the outer contour and towards the center facing slots for clamping the guitar. The shape is slightly larger than that of the Dreadnought guitar and the slots are so long that even a 3/4 guitar can be moored. The rollers are arranged in a circle, so you can turn the matter lightly, shifting, however, is a bit difficult, but it is rarely used. My roles are built-in roles and it is about 10mm gap under the board.

Edition guitar in the bracket (45034 Byte) Back of the cradle (42988 Byte)

Milling device structure:

Between two column guides (which I have drawn from a "well-stocked" Schrottkontainer) secured a Ø43mm recording for my default router. I have to sacrifice my old drill and put the holder in a piece of hardwood (screwed and sealed with epoxy). Through the guides, the cutter can move up and down. A spring between the columns holding the weight of the milling unit just so that it applies enough pressure to counter milling force and not the timber ceiling damaged (500g). An adjustable pressure pads to be adjusted as described above, the depth and width of the milled channel. The red to be recognized in the pictures shoe can be adjusted up and down by means of the slot, only a small part is really the support, the remainder being free ground .. With two clamps do I mount the device on the workbench.

Side View Fräserjustage (23529 Byte) Milled channel (24762 Byte) PIC00007.jpg (31666 Byte)
Overview 1 (48348 Byte)   Overview 2 (58418 Byte)

Advice

Since the use of this device and the cutter group I have no need for hand-held Fräsaktionen with an uncertain outcome. With a little effort for the production of the device you can save yourself lots of elbow grease for finishing and the adrenaline remains in the pleasant degree.

  • Caution when milling on the upper and lower body width. Here the router can be chipped along the annual rings all parts of the ceiling or the floor. Always with the annual rings mill ("downhill"). To protect against this helps advance the bodies Brush with hide glue and allow to dry or simply deliberately low depth of cut and mill in synchronism. Always new start according to the body for milling.
  • The safest one begins to mill the binding channel of the neck, since possibly occurring maladjustments through the neck can not be hidden
  • As little rework on glued binding, since it so like going back in grinding, planing!
  • Without the lower feed unit can be milled, if mounted on ball bearings cutter cutting depth is preset (19110002)
  • Ever before to try the depth and breadth of test timber and only then on the guitar !!!
  • Usual Binding thicknesses are 0.5mm, 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm; the herringbone stripe has 3mm.
  • Longest hold carbide-tipped cutters on wood
  • One can use this device also wonderful not ground away longer needed Binding if you then need to remove the ceiling