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Making A Bass Nut

Making A Bass Nut

Here I show you how to re-honing a bass saddle. A tool set consisting of round file and blade, see the article number 19050003.

For different reasons they must be replaced. If it is plastic saddles, like breaking off the outer ends of the strings and lose the lead. But even normal wear through years of playing may be the cause.

On the spare parts market you can also buy ready-made plastic saddles - from simple, white injection molded parts I advise. The are quite low and it gives the impression as you would have to glue it back only, but for good recordable and tunability has this very well in the height, and the grooves of the guide strings are processed. I recommend as a bone saddle blank. If you buy this as a blank (eg 6x8x45mm) you can edit and customize them quite well with simple tools such as saws, files and sandpaper. Also graphite saddles are to work OK just a little harder.

The saddles are usually stuck with a little glue. A small blow with a hammer on the fretboard side solves this. The groove is cleaned with chisels and files of adhesive residue, the measure of the new blank is taken.

First, the thickness is adjusted. I do it on the grinding machine, as well as manually going that fast. Often the bone blanks come only roughly ground. Each outer surface part finely ground to up to grit 320th Does the groove 6mm, the blank fits after grinding at 5.9mm.

If the saddle is now clean, you can with a pencil mark the width and saw off. With the file you fit the ends so that there is no sensible supernatant.

Now, the saddle height is tuned. First, I'm along a line on the top of the fingerboard. Thus I have the fingerboard contour, the radius. Parallel offset to run the strings. It adds the collar height (about 1.5mm) and each string should be about halfway to the saddle: so again about 1.5mm on the bass string to. The blank is now filed roughly at the final height. You can now already rounding the sides and the area of ​​the mechanics falls 1mm in an arc toward the rear.

Depending on Neck width at nut draw a strings distances. Usual measurements are to 11mm. But here you can also calculate yourself and vareieren. Laterally it takes about 4.5 mm toward the fingerboard and the distance between them is divided by the (number of strings -1). So when 4-String druch three (4.5 + 4.5 + 33 = 42mm)

With a hacksaw, ca 1mm wide, one cuts the notches a bit. Then with the small round file file semicircular notches according to the string gauges. The Feile tapers towards the front. At what point the right strings diameter is filed, it is best to first measure the calliper.

The right string height is such that the string goes away with a little air on the first fret and this swinging freely and did not buzz. So you can hear on the rough filing, if the lowest point of the notches are approximately 0.3 mm across gutter height.

The strings are pulled and slightly biased and now the finishing touches comes off. Pressing on the 3rd fret of the string must be some air (2-3 / 10mm). To this end, viewed from the side against a light background, and visually checks the gap. For controlling this with a feeler gauge - practically one notices it when the 3rd fret is pressed and you type the string at the first fret with your index finger. You hear a little "click" sound.